Vietnam

In Search of the Perfect Beach!
Story and Photos by: Martin Wilson

"...Vietnam's most well-known beaches are scattered along the central coast like a handful of pearls...."

What makes a perfect beach? While some like sand, sun and solitude, others prefer to follow the crowd. Vietnam offers something for everyone, with over 2,000 kilometers (1,250 miles) of coastline, much of it pristine and undeveloped. With names like Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and China Beach, Vietnam's most well-known beaches are scattered along the central coast like a handful of pearls. I decided to visit four popular resort towns, the kinds of places a typical traveler can easily visit in two days. I chose Vung Tau, for its proximity to Ho Chi Minh City; Phan Thiet/Mui Ne, an up and coming resort town within a half day's drive of Ho Chi Minh City; Nha Trang, Vietnam's biggest coastal resort; and China Beach, for its television fame and new five-star resort hotel.

Vung Tau:

Proximity to Ho Chi Minh City is what makes Vung Tau popular, not the quality of its beaches, which are mediocre at best and often crowded. Getting to Vung Tau is a snap. Daily hydrofoil service whisks you there in just over an hour. Alternatively, you can battle traffic for two hours in a mini-bus, car or on a motorbike. We depart on the 8:30 am hydrofoil; by 9:45 we're sitting in a cafe, sipping coffee and negotiating for a motorbike.

There are actually two beach areas in Vung Tau. Front Beach is located in town and is popular with locals. Back Beach is where you'll find most of the hotels and visitors. In addition to soaking up some rays, you can rent jet-skis, try parasailing, or play golf at the local 18-hole golf club. We head for Back Beach and a leisurely stroll along the surf.

Vung Tau is the king of tour package holidays. The beach is crowded with scores of folks. Many are Vietnamese on a weekend package from Ho Chi Minh City. One club at the far north end of the beach is packed with a large contingent of Korean families. It is also popular for foreign visitors on a tight schedule who nonetheless want to see Vietnam's coast.

The mid-day sun is hot and before long we seek refuge in one of the fresh seafood restaurants along the beach. Sheltered from the sun by a grove of evergreen trees, we sit on the open-air deck, where it is cool. Vung Tau has a reputation for being windy, and today is no exception; still, it's not enough to spoil our lunch of fresh, local crab and shrimp. With beer and mineral water the tab totals less than $10 USD for two.

After lunch we visit Vung Tau's most famous landmark, a towering statue of Jesus Christ set high atop a hill overlooking the town. For a small fee you can climb the winding steps that lead to the summit. From there the views of Back Beach are spectacular. Ascending the winding, circular staircase leads to an observation platform along the statue's outstretched arms. Afterward we continue our drive back to town, completing a circular loop to the boat dock. The return hydrofoil departs at 5:00 pm; by 6:30 we're back in Saigon.

(For more information on Vung Tau, see our Vung Tau destination).

Phan Thiet:

I often joke that the best place to overnight in Vung Tau is a hotel in Phan Thiet. (Which doesn't score a lot of points with the Vung Tau tourism authorities!) While fine for a day trip, Vung Tau leaves a lot to be desired in a country blessed with spectacular beaches. Those with more than a day should bypass Vung Tau and venture a little further. Phan Thiet, with its pristine beaches and 18-hole golf course, is a good place to start. The 200 kilometer (125 mile) journey from Ho Chi Minh City takes less than four hours by road or six by train (including a 45-minute drive from the station at Muong Man to Phan Thiet proper).

Phan Thiet is actually the gateway to the area's main attraction, the Mui Ne Cape. Mui Ne Cape is the kind of place you dream about on cold Winter days: long stretches of unspoiled beach; warm, inviting waters; swaying coconut palms; and quaint fishing villages. This narrow strip of land stretches 25 kilometers into the South China Sea. Most of the cape's resident fisherman live at the far end in the villages of Ham Tien and Mui Ne. A handful of others make their home under the shelter of coconut palms sandwiched between the sea and sand dunes.

More and more these fisherman are sharing their beach paradise with Vietnamese and foreign visitors. The first resort on the cape opened three years ago, in July 1995. Today there are six, catering to just about every taste and budget. Phan Thiet also boasts a top-notch, 18-hole links golf course and 120-room resort hotel. More hotels and resorts are set to open soon.

Until this past year, Phan Thiet and Mui Ne remained off the beaten path, attracting mainly expatriates seeking a respite from the hustle and bustle of Saigon. Meanwhile, most tourists and travelers headed for Vung Tau or Nha Trang. Even today relatively few have heard of Phan Thiet. (Most guidebooks have not yet caught up with the recent changes!) So those looking for a romantic getaway or a quiet family spot, sans karaoke, blaring music, wave runners and beach vendors, have at least a couple more years to enjoy the Mui Ne Cape.

(For more information on Phan Thiet and the Mui Ne Cape, see our Phan Thiet destination).

Nha Trang:

Nha Trang is without a doubt the most popular beach resort in Vietnam with both foreigners and Vietnamese alike. Nha Trang's natural appeal is its spectacular bay, nearby islands and unique micro-climate, which provides nine months of beautiful weather. Nha Trang has grown into a relatively modern resort town catering to the hordes of visitors who descend upon its shores each year. If you like to follow the crowd, follow it to Nha Trang!

Nha Trang's main drag, Tran Phu Street, runs north-south for seven kilometers (4 miles). A pedestrian walk borders the wide boulevard, separated from the beach by a grove of evergreen and palm trees. In the shade of the trees you'll find numerous restaurants and cafes. Across the street from the beach lie most of the hotels.

In many ways Nha Trang is simply an upscale version of Vung Tau. You rent your beach chair, umbrella and inner tube right on the beach. A steady stream of vendors will entice you with their wares. The water is generally warm and the sand is okay, although not as fine as that in Phan Thiet or Danang. At the end of the day, you have numerous cookie-cutter bars and restaurants, and even a handful of karaoke and disco clubs from which to choose.

If you tire of the beach scene, venture out to the nearby islands. Several hotels and tour companies offer a day trip that includes three or four stops, snorkeling and lunch for $7 USD. There are also two scuba diving shops in town. (Actually, there are five or six, but they are all run by the same two outfits!) The older and more established of the two, Blue Diving Club, runs daily trips including two boat dives, equipment rental and lunch for $60 USD.

Nha Trang will undoubtedly continue to attract throngs of tourists looking for sun and surf. If that's your scene, you won't be disappointed. But Nha Trang's beaches are only average, the accommodations generally nondescript and the dining rather bland. Serious beach seekers will do well to keep searching.

(For more information on Nha Trang, see our Nha Trang destination).

China Beach:

500 kilometers north of Nha Trang lies infamous China Beach. The name evokes romantic images set against a backdrop of war time R&R (mostly inspired by scenes from the American television series of the same name). The real China Beach is a stunning stretch of coastline, where emerald green seas meet verdant mountains. Surprisingly this area has seen relatively little development. One exception is the five-star Furama Resort, which opened in March 1997.

China Beach's reputation is well-deserved in at least one respect: it boasts the best beach in Vietnam. An unbroken stretch of fine, white sand backed by Norfolk pines runs up the coast as far as the eye can see. The water tends to be cooler than Phan Thiet or Nha Trang. A refreshing 22 degrees Celsius (72 degrees Fahrenheit) is typical. The surf is also reputed to be the best in Vietnam. Not surprisingly, Danang is home to Vietnam's only surfing club and has played host to an international surfing competition.

What is amazing about China Beach is not spectacular views, big surf or miles of uninterrupted beach, but the fact that it has yet to be developed! Along more than 20 kilometers (12 miles) of coastline, there are exactly three places to lay your head at the beach. Eliminate the Soviet dormitory-style lodging at Non Nuoc, and you're left with exactly two: My Khe, a funky little budget place, and the five-star Furama Resort, a luxury resort on a pristine stretch of beach known locally as Bac My An. Where you stay will depend primarily on your pocketbook.

Visitors to China Beach will certainly want to get in some beach time. A good day trip combines climbing Marble Mountain with a visit to the ancient port city of Hoi An. Danang also makes for a pleasant afternoon or evening. Vietnam's fourth-largest city, Danang is much more manageable than Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City and has a terrific riverfront promenade that makes for a pleasant stroll. It also boasts some surprisingly good restaurants if you tire of the beach eats at My Khe or the gourmet fare at the Furama.

(For more information on China Beach, see our Danang destination).

Finding the perfect beach will become increasingly challenging as more visitors travel to Vietnam, new beaches are "discovered", and hotels and resorts are built. Someday China Beach and Mui Ne will undoubtedly join Nha Trang as mass tourist destinations. But for now, finding a perfect beach in Vietnam is easy. I even stumbled upon a few new ones in my search. Of course, I'll save those for another story!